- Words by Toby Tannas Photography by Lia Crowe
Itâs a busy lunch hour at . Every table is alive with food and banter, including the one I sit at with executive chef April Roy. Sheâs at home here, just as comfortable in a corner booth as in the kitchen.
âIâve had many positions within Train Stationâs four walls,â explains April. âI started as kitchen manager and then rotated into the executive chef role. Now Iâm operating partner, running the business on both sides: culinary, as well as front of house.â
Itâs in the kitchen, though, where Aprilâs passion for food is fuelled. Sheâs developed the Train Station Pub (TSP) menu beyond what you would expect from a neighbourhood pub. Her secret sauce is an approachable relationship with flavour, seasoned by years of intense culinary training.
âWith my background at wineries and high-end hotels, I bring that type of vibe and put it on a pub plate. Itâs not about technique; itâs about flavour.â
Trained at The Culinary Institute of Canada, April has worked in some of the Okanaganâs most revered kitchens, including Manteo, The Eldorado and the famous Terrafina at Hester Creek. Her career train jumped track nine years ago when it pulled into TSP. April says it was destiny.
âI used to spend a lot of time in Âé¶čAV. I loved the look of the Train Station before it was a pub. I actually said, âone day, Iâm going to work there.â I kid you not; Iâve said that since day one. We would drive past this building on the way to Prospera to watch my brother play hockey 20 years ago!â
(Fun fact: Aprilâs brother, Nolan Yonkman, played with the Âé¶čAV Rockets in the late â90s.)
Like the chef herself, TSP is friendly and comfortable and the food is full of substance.
âWeâre still producing hotel-grade, beautiful dishes here. Itâs elevated pub food, so it doesnât always have to feel like a ânight out.â Itâs âhang outâ food with that social aspect as well.â
TSP definitely has that âwhere everybody knows your nameâ vibe. Burgers, as youâd expect, are at the core of the menu, but what April has chosen to call them is unexpected.
âWe have the Bun-Jovi Burger and the Yellowstone. They are quirky names that are fun to come up with.â
Aprilâs Dr. Seuss-ical approach to writing the menu is another creative outlet designed to amuse her and give diners a chuckle. Strip it down, though, and success is ultimately determined by what the food tastes like. From the All Aboard Shareables to First Class Bowls and Plates to End of the Line Desserts, April has carefully crafted each dish to reflect her love of flavour with a nod to her gourmet roots.
âMy thought process comes from the place of âwhat would I eat, what do I crave?â Then I combine that with whatâs new and upcomingâsince there are definitely fads in food.â
A current menu favourite is the Prawn Alfredo.
âItâs beautiful prawns in an Alfredo sauce with fresh peas, sautĂ©ed ham, lots of garlic and lemon. Itâs really fresh for summer.â
Another star entree thatâs nestled among the pub staples is the Blackened Salmon.
âItâs rubbed with our house-made Cajun spice, grilled to order with fresh Mediterranean vegetables, marinated cucumber, fresh corn salsa and stone fruit chutney. Itâs a fusion of different countries. You get a full flavour profile with the comfort of sitting in a pub.â
TSP is a hotspot these days with reservations recommended at peak times. Aprilâs menu has no doubt upped the popularity of the eatery, but the neighbourhood has also grown up around TSP. A new crop of breweries and pubs have made Âé¶čAVâs north end a foodie destination.
âThat has helped tremendously as far as people being aware of who we are now. Businesses help businesses, so weâre in that little community. If our neighbours are busy, they send people here and vice versa. We help each other out.â
TSP has a sister restaurant across town in the Landmark District. Mid-Town Station is also under Aprilâs charge. It has its own distinct vibe that requires a different approach to the menu.
âWe have more of a business crowd in the Landmark District. Theyâre looking for that great, quick, healthy lunch. Itâs more farm-to-fork at Mid-Town. We have so many amazing local farmers and producers. I always work to incorporate fresh, seasonal flavours at both restaurants.â
Managing two kitchens keeps April on her toes, but with a strong core staff she is able to spend most of her time exploring her culinary creativity.
âWe change the menu twice a year. Iâm always thinking about flavours. If Iâm relaxing, Iâll often have an epiphany moment and Iâll write it down. It just happens like that.â
And just like that, my time with this bubbly chef is almost up. Iâve saved my favourite question for last: âWhatâs in your fridge at home?â
April doesnât hesitate.
âIf you open my fridge, youâll find cheese. Thereâs some sort of cheese in there always, tons of hot sauces and mustard.â
Cheese and condiments! Sounds like the beginning of the next great April Roy culinary creation.
Story courtesy of , a Black Press Media publication
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