- Words by Devon Smith Photography by Don Denton
Wine and cheese. Simple, right? But in reality, this classic French pair can often overwhelm with too many rules and an overabundance of choices. Not to despair, thoughâa new bistro in town is aiming to cut through the complexities of this classic combo by simply bringing friends together through food and drink.
âWeâre here to make wine and cheese more accessible for everyone,â explains Page Loten, co-owner of LâApĂ©ro Wine & Cheese Bistro. âWeâve designed our experience to be as flexible as possible, so people can come in and enjoy a small tasting, they can take wine and cheese to go, or they can dive into a more complex, diverse tasting experience with a group of friends. Thereâs something for everyone here.â
The bistro, which opened last fall in downtown Victoria, is the brainchild of Page and his business partner, co-owner and resident cheese expert Guillaume Kieffer.
After many years in food and beverage management in hotels and restaurants, Page wanted to start a bistro where people could gather with friends.
âDuring the pandemic we all realized just how much we missed that aspect of gathering, eating and enjoying wine with friends, and I really wanted to be a part of that coming back. But the one thing missing was I didnât have a strong knowledge of cheese,â he explains, sitting in the bright, modern space.
A mutual friend connected him with Guillaume who was sharing his vast knowledge and love of all things cheese through his business, LâApĂ©ro Experience, a mobile cheese service, featuring cheese boards and seminars. After partnering with Page and opening LâApĂ©ro Wine & Cheese Bistro, Guillaume has now found a permanent home base from which to share his passion.
The two took possession of the space last summer and worked through the season to renovate it. The bistro is bright and spacious with tables downstairs and a loft area upstairs which can either accommodate regular dining during peak hours, or private functions. A glass showcase presents carefully curated cheeses, and a beautiful feature wall behind the front counter displays the current wine selection. The walls are adorned with local art by Victoria Heryet, evoking somewhat of a French feel, and the rest of the décor is clean and simple.
âWe worked throughout the summer to make sure everything was just right, but eventually, you just have to bite the bullet and open,â explains Page, adding that their decision to finally open the doors brought about a moment of great coincidence.
âI remember we were tearing the paper off the windows,â laughs Page. âAs we did, there was a couple standing just outside the door. They asked us when we were opening and I said âToday, youâre our first guests!â It turns out that this very couple were the first guests of LâApĂ©ro three years earlier! We took that as a good omen.â
After that soft opening, theyâve had wonderful response from their clientele, he adds. âWeâve been incredibly supported by the community and weâre so thankful for that.â
Of course, they both note, they couldnât do it without their chef, kitchen staff and servers.
âWe are so, so lucky with our staff. Weâre a really tight team and theyâre at the heart of what we do. Theyâre such a huge part of the experience because we rely on them to provide a warm, welcoming environment and, most importantly, to help us create a memorable experience for our guests,â says Page.
Also at the heart of what they do are the themes of sharing and keeping it simple.
âThereâs a reason we donât have more types of wine on the menu, and why we keep our options simple,â explains Page. âWe try to build a friendly, easy list that has something for everyone, so people can share and try different things. I always say you donât have to be a sommelier to know what you like. If you come in and tell your server what kind of wine you normally like to drink, we can make it easy by building you a cheese-tasting experience around that.â
And donât think if youâve been to LâApĂ©ro once or twice that youâve tried it all, Guillaume adds. The flexible menu provides a unique experience for guests with each visit.
âI really make sure to always have new options for our clients,â he explains, pointing to the bistroâs generously stocked showcase. âEvery time I order cheese, I make sure to bring in new cheeseâeven new to me. That way, thereâs always something new for guests to try when they visit.â
Along with the lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch menus served in the bistro, LâApĂ©ro offers an array of other options, including customizable online cheese boards, picnic boxes, vegan and dairy-free options, cheese to go from the counter, event catering, subscription boxes delivered to your door and seminars like Cheese Tasting 101 and Wine and Cheese Pairing Parties.
âOur classes are always a fun experience because people can really learn about how a wine pairing complements a specific cheese, and why certain pairings complement each other or donât,â Guillaume adds.
You can visit Guillaume and Page at LâApĂ©ro Wine & Cheese Bistro at 1028 Blanshard Street in downtown Victoria. Reservations are recommended on Friday and Saturday nights, and on nights when thereâs a show on at the Royal Theatre.
To order online visit and to stay up to date with the latest pairings as well as the fall 2022 class schedule, follow them on Instagram .
Story courtesy of , a Black Press Media publication
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